How to Start an Italian Empire from Scratch
Ask a Vancouverite for their favourite Pizza and you’ll quickly get to names like Via Tevere, Don’t Argue, and Straight Brooklyn Pizza - some of the most popular and iconic pizzerias in the city. You would assume these brands all compete for the title of Vancouver’s best pizza. But, in actual fact, all three of these names - spanning eight brick and mortar stores and a food truck - are owned and operated by the same family: an industrious pair of brothers. Herein lies their story and a guide for how to start your own Italian culinary Empire. But it's not a story about the mob, and neither one about leveraged buyouts and ruthless conquests. This is the remarkable history of Vancouver's most down-to-earth restaurateurs.
Frank Morra and his brother Dom didn’t grow up in hospitality. They were born in Vancouver, growing up on Commercial Drive, but their hardworking father spent his career working in construction. All the same, what they have built in Vancouver over the course of 20 years is nothing short of an Italian Empire. One that expands far beyond the beloved traditions entrenched on Commercial Drive - Vancouver’s little Italy.
So how do you start an Italian Empire from scratch?
If you ever want to start an Italian Empire it helps to be Italian. And while Frank and Dom weren’t born in Italy it is distinctly their heritage.
When Frank and Dom started Via Tevere (1190 Victoria Drive) it was born out of a genuine desire to create authentic Neapolitan style pizza to share with the Italian community of East Vancouver - and anybody looking for a tasty slice of Italy. The seed was planted in 1988, where Frank can remember tasting his first real margarita pizza, in Naples, at the age of nine. For both brothers food became more than just their passion after that, it became a truly heartfelt connection to a culture they adored. When it came time to open their very own spot nestled in Vancouver’s little Italy the community responded quickly. It was a hit.
Fast forward and Via Tevere now has two locations, the newest one on Main & 16th. Over the years this brand has cultivated its admirers. Many of whom have nominated it as their favourite pizza in the city on Mates on Crates, including famed Sushi Boss, Hilary Nguy of Sushi Hil. But in the time between the opening of the original and now the second Via Tevere a lot went on in building the Empire.
It was a trip to New York inspired them to try something new: New York Italian-style pizza. Big, foldable slices equally suited to being taken on the road as consumed in the store. Straight Brooklyn Pizza was an instant success and even though you won’t find one turning up the noses of traditionalists on The Drive there are now five stores servicing some of the most engaging food neighborhoods in the city.
For those taking notes, the lesson here is to embrace change and experiment with different forms. Via Tevere and Straight Brooklyn are both examples of quality pizza - but they avail themselves of different needs and appetites, satisfying different moments.
Then, in 2019 Pizzeria Tratto opened in the Okanagan Valley and became the Morra's first pizzeria outside of Vancouver. Located in Penticton, Tratto is a popular spot among locals for the Neapolitan style that Frank and Dom have refined so well over the years.
Let's rewind. The history of Frank and Dom’s restaurant revolution was actually a spot called Ragazzi Pizza and it is still located on East 22nd in the Renfrew-Collingwood neighborhood. For the last 15 years Ragazzi has had new ownership but Paul Teixeira is close friends with the Morra's, because he was the shop's manager when Frank sold the business to him in 2010. Ragazzi continues to be a place that Frank adores and he'll even nominate it as his favourite pizza in Vancouver.
Finally, there's the remarkable story of Don’t Argue Pizza and Caffè Soccavo.
On Commercial Drive, the Abruzzo Cappuccino Bar had long been a neighborhood favourite, particularly for the Italians who felt at home in their enclave in East Vancouver. Among many regulars, this was a spot where Frank and Dom’s father would feel at home on the weekends, watching Italian soccer and remonstrating expressively with his friends over a perfect espresso. But between 2021 and 2022 Abruzzo was designated to be sold and the land likely redeveloped. The Drive was to lose one of its longstanding icons, in spite of its history and popularity. But the Morra’s had other ideas. In secret they hatched a plan to save their Dad’s favourite coffee shop by purchasing it themselves. In 2022, they reopened it as Caffè Soccavo, keeping many of the original details, where it continues to show Italian soccer and takes care of their Dad and his friends to this day.
But Caffè Soccavo is just one part of a multi-course experience. Even before the purchase of Abruzzo, the brothers had acquired the brand of the one-time successful Main St. pizzeria, Don’t Argue. Hoping to relaunch the brand, Caffè Soccavo became the perfect location to re-introduce Don’t Argue to Vancouver and the Drive, which they did in 2024. Today you can walk in and order an espresso and pastry from the boisterous Soccavo and a slice of pie from Don’t Argue without leaving the same room. It was for the regard to the history of Caffè Soccavo and its predecessors that Commercial Drive has taken very quickly to this dynamic revitalization of two famous Vancouver brands under one roof.
Away from Commercial Drive, the Italian Eatery Empire has continued to grow. Not content with pizza and coffee, the latest addition to the Morra’s offerings is Dante Italian Sandwich Shop on Robson St. Inspired once again by a trip to New York this latest endeavor, in the heart of downtown, only opened in late 2024 but it is already a local favourite. Here you can find Frank busy in the heart of the kitchen preparing the very sandwich you’ve just ordered.
Which takes us back to the start. How do you build an Italian Empire from scratch? You’ve got to be standing in the heated kitchen of a busy sandwich shop preparing Mortazza sandwiches even as you run another 8 businesses.
Frank and Dom’s story is one more than just of business success. On the Dante website is written "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication," a quote attributed to Leonardo da Vinci. This belief in simplicity remains a guiding ethos for the brothers over their many forays into Italian cuisine and it has rewarded them. They make a great and authentic series of products. But it's the combination of their respect for tradition and community and unrelenting dedication to everything they create that has made them such an impactful force in the city’s hospitality scene. Everything they have done has a special reason for existing, whether it’s creating authentic Italian pizzas or revitalizing historic cafes and that’s why they have thrived. They are a much beloved team in the industry and when building an empire you need supporters who will treat you with the same love and respect that they've been treated by you. That is the quintessence of the story of Frank and Dom.
Chef’s Favourite was made to tell the stories of hospitality entrepreneurs like Frank and Dom Morra, whose efforts have elevated communities and delighted customers throughout the city.
Recently, we were delighted to have the chance to sit down with Frank at Dante to film an episode of Mates on Crates and got to know more about this latest proposition featuring a delicious combination of Mortadella, Pistachio, and Fior di latte.
What inspired Dante Italian Sandwiches?
Frank: We traveled to New York and saw how iconic sandwich spots operate. The simplicity of the concept, but with high-quality ingredients, just spoke to us. We wanted to bring that vibe to Vancouver, focusing on fresh bread, incredible meats, and simple but bold flavors.
Is there a meaning behind the name?
Frank: No! We just liked it!
Every time I walk by it's absolutely rammed. What's going on?
Frank: My brother and I didn't know. We were talking and we didn't know if it was going to take off, if it was going to be good. We didn't know what to expect. We took the paper off the windows and ... it was like the Roxy on a Friday night. I looked at my brother and said holy sh-t - how much bread did we make today? We were running out of bread as we didn't expect it to be that busy. It was fun.
You make your own bread?
Frank: That's right. In-house, every day.
How many sandwiches do you go through on a busy day?
Frank: 500. It's been pretty crazy.
What makes Italian bread so special?
Frank: It’s all about the flour and technique. Italian flour gives the bread that light, airy texture with a slight crunch on the outside and that perfect chew inside. It’s just different. We import our flour from Italy to get that authentic taste.
Being an Italian boy you've probably grown up around your suppliers your whole life?
Frank: Yes. One of my first jobs was driving a truck around delivering prosciuttos. 18 years old. I was delivering mortadella's and prosciutto's out of a cube van. It was one of my favourites (jobs) actually.
[Regarding Pizza] Is there something to do with the water that makes a difference?
Frank: Anywhere you go in the world, you're not eating the pizza like [in] Naples. It's a little bit different. We try our best but the water in Naples is special.
What is the difference between a New York Style and an Italian Style Pizza?
Frank: The cooking time and the temperature. The dough is different as well. The Neapolitan is 90 seconds at super high heat and the Brooklyn is at a lower temperature for a couple more minutes.
Frank and Dom Morra aren't just running a sandwich shop—they are building on a legacy of authentic Italian hospitality in Vancouver. Whether you’re stopping by Dante Italian Sandwiches for a quick, quality bite or visiting one of his other spots, you can expect nothing but the best.If you haven’t been yet, get there early—Dante opens at 11, and by 11:01, there’s already a line. It’s worth the wait.
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