A Legacy in Every Bowl: How The Lunch Lady Changed Vietnamese Cuisine from Saigon to Canada
Sitting on a simple plastic stool in Ho Chi Minh City in 2008, Anthony Bourdain tasted a spoonful of bún bò Huế, looked up, and uttered a now-famous phrase: "A broth that the gods were suckled on." The humble cook behind this bowl was Nguyễn Thị Thanh, known affectionately as the Lunch Lady. Little did either know that this singular moment would ripple across oceans, shaping Vietnamese food culture in Canada, thousands of kilometers from where their paths crossed.
Humble Beginnings and Global Impact
Thanh's culinary journey began modestly in 1995, with a small street stall in Saigon. Her cooking embodied the soul of Vietnam: authentic, humble, and rich with tradition. Serving rotating noodle soups each day, she nurtured busy workers, connecting them through warmth, consistency, and flavor that encapsulated her heritage.
When Bourdain visited for No Reservations, Thanh's stall became more than just a local lunch spot; it transformed into a symbol of authenticity and the cultural depth hidden in simple street food. He described the experience as “discovering new neighborhoods every few mouthfuls,” capturing the complexity of Vietnam’s culinary tapestry, with Thanh as its eloquent storyteller.
Bourdain’s encounter elevated the Lunch Lady from local legend to global culinary icon. Tourists flocked to her stall, eager for a taste of the broth praised by one of food culture's greatest advocates.
Crossing Oceans: From Saigon to Vancouver
Inspired by Cố Thanh’s legacy, in 2020, two restaurateurs from Vancouver, Benedict Lim and Michael Tran, approached Thanh about bringing her recipes and culinary philosophy to Canada. This culminated in the 2022 opening of The Lunch Lady restaurant in Vancouver, where Thanh’s food quickly garnered a coveted Michelin Bib Gourmand (and has each year since).
Benedict Lim, culinary director, described the balance they struck between authenticity and innovation as an "80-20 rule": 80% classic Vietnamese flavors, with 20% influenced by contemporary Canadian culinary techniques. “She left behind recipes,” Benedict says, “but what she left behind most importantly was what she wanted us to represent and her representation of food and love and culture and why she did it.”
Guests at the Vancouver restaurant didn’t simply dine; they experienced a piece of Thanh’s soul, each meal echoing her philosophy of making travelers feel at home. As one tribute put it, “Tony never found his way home; Thanh did, by making every traveler feel at home.”
Toronto: A Bittersweet Expansion
A month ago, in June 2025, Benedict and Michael prepared to expand The Lunch Lady to Toronto’s bustling Ossington Avenue, a vibrant culinary neighborhood reminiscent of Vancouver’s Commercial Drive and echoing the multicultural dynamism Cố Thanh represented. Tragedy struck at the worst of times. Minutes after arriving in Toronto, to honour and celebrate the opening of the new restaurant, Thanh suddenly fell ill and did not recover.
Her sudden loss stunned the culinary community, both in Canada and Vietnam. Benedict reflected, "We lost someone irreplaceable. Without her, there’s no story, no Vancouver, no Toronto. But I know exactly what she’d say: ‘Get up, get to work. Get people in the restaurant and make them happy.’"
Toronto’s Lunch Lady, located in a former mechanic's garage, is designed as a journey through Vietnam’s vibrant streets. Benedict describes it as the mature sister to their original in Vancouver, where the space has allowed them to explore more nuance. Each area, from the main dining room to intimate private spaces, evokes a different neighborhood. It feels like a homage to Thanh’s method, inviting guests into an ever-changing culinary adventure.
Culinary Authenticity, Elevated
Benedict’s menu in Toronto, much like Vancouver, features the classics inspired by Thanh’s original stall: daily rotating noodle soups, rice dishes, and vibrant Vietnamese street foods. Yet, the space allowed for more creativity, like dishes featuring fermented tofu blended with yogurt and caramelized eggplant, fusing Canadian culinary flair with Vietnamese roots.
The restaurant also carries a robust cocktail program, something Thanh may have only dreamed of from her tiny street stall ensconced in the ceaseless bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. Toronto's vibrant food scene embraced this vision wholeheartedly, echoing Thanh’s spirit of innovation grounded firmly in authenticity.
The Cultural Bridge Thanh Built
Thanh’s food, as Bourdain passionately pointed out, connected diners not just to flavors but to the heart and soul of Vietnam. She represented something deeper than culinary skill, a humble authenticity, human connection, and sincere care. Through her, street food was elevated, honored not as passing sustenance but as genuine cultural expression.
The Lunch Lady restaurants in Vancouver and Toronto stand as bridges in Canada to Vietnam. They are rooted in her profound belief in food as a universal language. Thanh never sought the spotlight but found it nonetheless, illuminating Vietnamese culinary traditions on the global stage.
Anthony Bourdain’s reflections during his meal with Thanh still hold powerful meaning today. In No Reservations, their conversation began simply, with Bourdain genuinely curious about Thanh’s life, what inspired her, and what brought her joy. In asking simple questions about her daily routine, the meals she cooked, and the customers she fed, Bourdain uncovered deeper insights: Thanh wasn't just nourishing bodies, she was nurturing connections. Her warmth, humility, and sincere care, expressed in every dish she prepared, became the essence of what Bourdain saw as food's highest purpose: to bring people together through genuine hospitality and shared experiences.
Continuing Her Legacy
Today, The Lunch Lady’s legacy thrives in every bowl served in Vancouver and now equally in Toronto, each spoonful echoing Bourdain’s profound declaration from 2008. Thanh’s remarkable journey, from Saigon street cook to beloved international figure, has forever reshaped our understanding of what street food can achieve.
For Benedict Lim, each day in the restaurants continues her work, guided by Thanh’s enduring lesson: food is not just sustenance but a profound expression of love and culture.
In Toronto and Vancouver alike, Thanh’s broth continues to nourish, reminding diners with every bite that some legacies are as deep and enduring as the flavors that inspire them.
