Fine Dining As Medicine: A Royal Touch At Baan Lao
Sitting serenely along the water’s edge, far removed from the bustle of downtown Vancouver, is the heart of historic Steveston village. Steveston is a cherished spot, lauded for its picturesque qualities and historic storytelling. It’s also dotted with restaurants that have become many a family tradition, from the fish and chips at Pajos right on the pier, to brunch at Cannery Cafe, or a pie from Richmond Pizza Company (where ambitious visitors can throw their wallets at an $850 pizza made with lobster ratatouille, smoked steelhead, Russian Osetra caviar, and Italian truffles). These days though, those in the know know that the crown jewel of this charming village is a 20-seat Thai restaurant offering some of the best food in Canada.
Baan Lao is more than a place to dine; it’s an experience curated by the meticulous hand of award-winning Chef-Owner, Nutcha Phanthoupheng, a woman whose remarkable life blends hospitality, science, and the refined artistry of royal Thai cuisine.
Some years ago, thousands of kilometers away and far across an ocean of immense magnitude, Nutcha began her life in the Thailand. Here her culinary roots expressed themselves from the start. Nutcha’s earliest memories revolve around the rural farm where her family has cultivated rice for over a century. This profound connection to the land naturally fostered a deep respect for fresh ingredients and under her mother’s guidance, she learned to transform farm-grown produce into beautifully prepared meals. Even then, at a young age, cooking was not merely sustenance, it was a tangible way of caring deeply for others.
Nutcha was destined for greatness and it’s fair to say that she is already earning that as a chef, but it was not cooking, but a calling for healing, that first defined Nutcha’s professional life. Driven by compassion and a desire to nurture, she became a nurse, ultimately serving at Chulabhorn Hospital, where she cared directly for Princess Chulabhorn, a member of Thailand’s revered royal family. In this prestigious and highly impactful role Nutcha developed a profound sense of duty, precision, and attentiveness. As she reflects, "When I was a nurse, I took care of people’s health. As a chef, I still do, but now my medicine is food."
Her commitment to health extended beyond bedside care. As a board member she actively contributed to cancer research at the hospital. In so doing she inherited a deep appreciation for the intricate links between diet and wellness. This intersection of science and nourishment profoundly shaped her culinary philosophy and consecrated the decision which has defined the next chapter of her life.
Moving to Vancouver, Nutcha was committed to creating a culinary experience built on the principles of: elevated quality, authenticity, and wellness. Guided by this newfound mission, Nutcha returned to Thailand and sought instruction from Thailand’s culinary masters, Michelin-starred chefs, Iron Chef Thailand winners, and the guardians of the Thai royal family’s kitchens. Their stringent standards resonated with her scientific training, reinforcing the belief that every ingredient must be carefully selected, every dish a meticulous expression of balance, and each meal health-giving and life-affirming.
In deciding the location for the restaurant, Nutcha and her husband John wanted a waterfront property and a place that inherited the same level of wellness and charm that was to house the cuisine served within it. Having turned down opportunities around the city, they chose Steveston as the location to bring their culinary dream to life. Here, away from the hubbub of Vancouver’s city center, they established Baan Lao (meaning "Our Home" in Thai), in 2021, amidst the heady challenges posed by the global pandemic. Starting modestly with takeaway options, Nutcha patiently awaited the moment to fully realize her ambitious vision. When the time arrived, Baan Lao was transformed into a sophisticated haven, showcasing an intricate tasting menu dedicated to traditional Thai cuisine.
Baan Lao’s intimate setting accentuates Nutcha’s culinary artistry. The menu, featuring 18 thoughtfully curated dishes, draws deeply on her personal memories and Thailand’s rich culinary heritage. Ingredients are sourced daily and measured precisely to serve each reserved guest, ensuring minimal waste and maximum freshness. Local specialties, such as water buffalo sourced personally from Langley’s Academy Farm, pay tribute to her childhood memories. Nutcha even serves rice directly from her family’s farm in Thailand, each bite connecting diners to her roots and legacy.
"I want people to see Thai food differently," Nutcha explains passionately. "I aim to elevate cuisine here in Canada, to open eyes, mouths, and hearts." Her dishes, like the exquisite duck larb or the meticulously prepared pad Thai, wrapped delicately in a handmade egg net, demonstrate a masterful balance, perfectly aligned with the refined standards of royal Thai cuisine.
Nutcha’s care extends beyond food alone. Baan Lao is staffed by a distinguished team, including sommeliers specializing in wine and tea pairings, and offers innovative experiences such as a Thai-inspired afternoon tea service, perhaps the first of its kind. Handmade ceramics imported from Chiang Mai and a captivating painting created by Suda, a gifted elephant artist from Thailand, add layers of authenticity and charm.
Preparation embodies Nutcha’s central ethos: that some experiences truly deserve the extra effort and patience. Her journey, from rural farms and royal hospitals in Thailand to the idyllic waterfront of Steveston, illustrates that genuine excellence demands unwavering dedication. In that same vein, a visit to Baan Lao requires planning. Not only does its limited and personalized sourcing of ingredients necessitate advanced reservations, but just as the food is designed, sourced and served with intense dedication and intention, it is an effort worth making to make your way there for dinner. In fact, Baan Lao was awarded Canada’s Best Destination Restaurant this year by the organization Canada’s 100 Best, and earned #26 best restaurant in the country.
In Steveston, as night as softly falls over the village each day, Baan Lao’s warm glow stands as a testament to Nutcha’s truly remarkable journey and her profound belief that the finest things in life are always worth the greatest care.
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