What It's Like Meeting A Sushi Boss
The name Sushi Hil first blipped on our radar early on in Mates on Crates history. It seemed innocuous enough at first but coming from Chef Doug Stephen - the Vancouver legend behind Downlow Brands - it was a name we notched in our brains to come back to
.Over dozens of interviews we had countless guests call out Sushi Hil as their favourite spot for sushi - and even the last meal that blew them away - each offering effusive praise, in a style that's reserved for rockstars and fortune 500 CEO's.
Naturally, on our mission to introduce our audience to the real people behind the big names in hospitality we wanted to meet this mysterious Chef Hilary San and discover exactly who this character was, changing the landscape of Vancouver's culinary scene. But here's the thing...you don't just get to meet a SUSHI BOSS.
Our DMs were drowned among hundreds, maybe thousands. Attempted drop in's were pointless as the walk-in's queue stretched for hours and the restaurant was booked to capacity from open to close... In our months long pursuit (which started more casually and eventually became borderline obsessive) the notion of our enigmatic Sushi Don grew. He became this imposing figure taking on the form of a demi-god, a mystical being and powerful presence. Our time, if we ever got it, was at his explicit discretion - our imaginations ran wild with the anticipation... would we be summoned through heavy oak doors by hachimaki wearing sushi chefs with Yanagiba blades menacingly tucked into their waistbands?
James doesn't get nervous, but the wait to finally meet this shadowy figure that had become our legendary white whale began to weigh on him. It was fortunate then that as we were on the verge of camping outside the restaurant overnight - we finally received the news we had been waiting for. The interview was on.There was a palpable anxiety as we approached the notably light doors leading to our distinguished host. When they finally parted there was a gasp - as before us stood ... a man. Not an 8 ft. monolith with wary eyes and a gold crown, but rather a warm smiling face with a simple sushi band on his head, shorts, and Jordan's on his feet. It was deeply surreal. But in that moment we realized that while he wasn't the Sushi DON we had come to imagine, he was 100% a BOSS in the completely opposite way. Charming, genuine and down to Earth - this was someone who was dedicated to gracious hospitality with a fierce personal and professional passion.
A Vancouver native with nearly three decades in the industry, Chef Hilary Nguy has made a name for himself at Sushi Hil by creating an experience that blends top-tier sushi craftsmanship with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Over our Mates on Crates interview it was a delight to discuss his journey, inspirations, and insights into the future of Vancouver’s culinary landscape. Here's what he had to share.
Sushi Hil has made a massive impact in Vancouver’s dining scene. What sets it apart?
Chef Hilary: Honestly, we try to keep things pretty simple. We have a great team, we love what we do. Consistency is at the top of our vocabulary. And whether or not you're wanting to enjoy a nice casual lunch here, or if you're celebrating something special, we really wanted to be able to translate a little bit of that passion through our food and our hospitality.
You’ve been in the industry for 27 years. Tell us about your journey.
Chef Hilary: I started in the restaurant business at 18, working as a line cook. I actually fell into sushi by accident—one of my best friends bought a sushi restaurant and needed an apprentice. I knew nothing about sushi at the time, but I took the opportunity, fell in love with it, and have been dedicated to it ever since.
Did you have a mentor along the way?
Chef Hilary: I wasn’t lucky enough to have one mentor, but I learned from everyone around me. Every person I’ve worked with has taught me something, and I think it goes both ways. That’s how I’ve grown into the chef I am today.
Sushi is often described as the art of mastering simplicity. What does that mean to you?
Chef Hilary: It’s about making something seemingly simple—fish and rice—reflect years of experience. There’s a lot that goes into perfecting it, from knife skills to temperature control to the balance of flavors. Even after 27 years, I’m still learning how to make a better piece of nigiri.
Vancouver’s sushi scene has evolved dramatically. What are your thoughts on that?
Chef Hilary: When I started, sushi was considered a special-occasion meal. Then came the all-you-can-eat era, which made it more accessible. Now, we’ve come full circle—people want high-quality sushi and are willing to pay for it. The rise of omakase has been huge, but I wanted Sushi Hil to sit somewhere between casual and high-end. It’s about delivering a top-tier experience in a comfortable setting.
Has Michelin recognition changed the game for Vancouver restaurants?
Chef Hilary: 100%. It’s put us on the map globally, and we’ve seen a huge increase in international guests. It also pushes chefs to uphold higher standards. Initially, I had mixed feelings about Michelin, but now I see how it has made me a better chef. It raises the bar for everyone.
What’s your favourite thing on the Sushi Hil menu?
Chef Hilary: My wife’s favourite dish—our steamed chawanmushi. It’s a silky egg custard topped with torch-seared foie gras, which adds a rich balance to the dish.
What’s a restaurant that lives up to the hype?
Chef Hilary: I’d say (Bun Cha Ca) Hoang Yen for pho. It’s my go-to comfort food, and they specialize in it. Another spot I’ve been loving is Mahana in North Vancouver, run by Hiroshi-san—an incredible sushi chef.
What’s your favourite ingredient to work with?
Chef Hilary: Lately, I’ve been really into vegetables. Elevating simple ingredients like daikon is a challenge I love. It’s a humble vegetable, but when handled right, it absorbs flavors beautifully and offers a range of textures.
Vancouver has all the ingredients to be one of the best food cities in the world. What do we need to get there?
Chef Hilary: The food scene here is incredible, and Michelin has helped elevate it. But we need better support for independent restaurants. Rent is a huge challenge, and it would be great to see policies in place to help small businesses thrive.
Sushi Boss Chef Hilary San has mastered the delicate balance of precision and passion. With Sushi Hil, he has created a space where top-tier sushi meets a welcoming, neighborhood feel—an experience that keeps guests coming back and generates new converts at every occasion. Whether you’re a sushi aficionado or just starting your journey into Japanese cuisine, Sushi Hil is a must-visit spot in Vancouver’s ever-growing culinary scene.
Been to Sushi Hil?
Let us know how it was and what you tried!
Check out the episode below then see the full list of Hilary's favourites here.
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